Pocket Space

I have to admit, when I find a dress and it has a pocket, I do a little happy dance. The reason is, I like to go out hands-free.

Ever wondered, who invented pockets? Was there a costume designer’s meet somewhere? Some stylists got an Eureka moment with the idea of stitching a pocket in the attire. Then why it is so that Men’s garments have pockets sewn into them but not women’s? 

But then I came to know there is such a deep history and surprisingly gender politics behind sewing pockets. Although pockets have seen many makeovers over the years and their presence in both men’s and women’s clothing is relatively recent. Pockets first began appearing on waistcoats and trousers about 500 years ago. Hard to believe right? As you already know, back then half of the population was not wearing trousers. But the notion is, during Medieval times, both men and women used to tie pouches around their waists to keep valuables safe. Maybe that was the inspiration behind sewing pockets in the garments.

In the 17th century, pockets began being sewn into men’s clothing but not women’s. Instead, women had to fasten a pouch or bag-like thing to a belt, which would be under layers of skirts and petticoats. These pockets would often be ornate in design but not functional and accessible like men’s. Back then, women used to fill their tie-on purses with various things, from money, jewelry, knives, guns, and perhaps a bottle of gin.

Then in the Victorian Era, fashion began to change. There was a shift in focus to corsets and slimmer waistlines which meant that tie-on pockets would bulge out from under the fabric and affect the drape of the dress. And so, women were forced to use small handheld bags, the predecessor of modern-day handbags.

But the question still remains, who decided women don't deserve to have pockets? There is something called Feminism and if you don't believe in it, let me take you to the Women's pocket! Yes, you heard it right.

The trousers, jeans, shirts, and dresses worn by women rarely have pockets or faux pockets if at all. You may be surprised to know that a woman's jeans pocket is 48% shorter and 6.5% narrower than a man's pocket. Men's pant pocket can fit a whole Narnia (a movie reference) while you can't fit a small key in a women's pocket. Isn't it annoying?

Iconic designer, Christian Dior cemented the sexism of pockets in 1954 by stating " Men have pockets to keep things in, women for decoration”. Fast forward over 60 years and we are still having the same argument.

Why have pockets still remained the major clothing gender divider? One theory could be the male-dominated fashion industry which continues to drive preference for aesthetics over utility. Men are designing the garments and the focus is "driven not by form and function", but by design and how the clothing best drapes the women's body to look more desirable. As such they reinforce stereotypes about women being objects of desire, worrying more about how they look like versus their needs as equal members of the society. Can't we design garments with ample pocket space and yet have beautiful garments?

Another practical theory is: If women have pockets, then they won't buy Handbags! Now handbags have become more of a signature accessory than a utility product. Also, fashion is about making money and accessories are a huge revenue generator. Luxury designer brands like GUCCI, PRADA, CHANNEL, and GIVENCHY wouldn't have become multi-millionaire companies overnight. Valued at 8 billion dollars, the purse industry isn't about to give women pockets and lose their highly profitable handbag business! On the other side, it's ridiculous that women are often mocked for carrying voluminous handbags to work which is justified as they don't have an option.

So where does that leave us? Women want pockets big and wide on the back of their jeans even if it's a low waist one. We want pockets in shirts, jackets, tops, pants, and in every possible garment where one will fit. We want to put a screeching halt to fake pockets that fool us. One possible way could be to, pledge to buy clothes that have pockets, hoping that change will come, albeit slowly. So that we can leave our home bag free, with wallet, keys, lipstick, phone, and mint tucked away in our pockets.