Decoding Secret Messages: Andamans

DECODING SECRET MESSAGES: ANDAMANS                              By

                 Geeta C Yadav

“Travel is more than seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in   the ideas of living.” Miriam Beard

                    I found my true self in the wilderness to realise that I was lost since a long long time. Yes! Lost in the materialistic world that groomed me to struggle for a speck and then call it mine. Life was difficult and I pined for some ease but the clutter in my mind robbed me of my peace. I set myself on a voyage of self-discovery to the Andamans that beckoned the seeker in me with promises of natural silence and peace.

 I flew from Chennai to reach Port Blair; the capital of the UT of Andaman and Nicobar Archipelago in the Bay of Bengal and instantly realised that not all stars belonged to the night sky. Many sparkled on the sands as they probably rested after riding on the waves with twinkling rainbows trapped inside. It wasn’t just any ordinary island for it was intended to be a blessed opportunity to realise my wish list as I visited the adventurous and remote island of Baratang called the Land Of Natural Wonders.

Located between South and Middle Andaman, Baratang was my spiritual destiny chosen mysteriously to help me understand the true purpose of life. I took the STC bus from Aberdeen Bazaar (Port Blair) that left for Baratang and travelled around 100 km by road and reached this beautiful yet mystifying haven. The tour required permission from forest department. The journey was in two phases: Port Blair to Jiratang and then from Nilamber Jetty (close to Jiratang) to Baratang.  Famous for its pristine beaches, mangrove creeks, mud volcanoes and limestone caves, Baratang just took my breath away.

I came to know that the route through the Andaman Trunk Road to Rangat and Mayabunder would be a lustrous drive to Baratang Island. Fresh air, lush green surroundings, the beaming sun and a queer silence; it was like driving through the forests of wonderland. Off and on, the silence tuned in with the song of the birds, and at other times our squeals disturbed the calm when a wood pecker was heard or when we spotted a deer. 

We halted at Jirkatang and then entered the Jarawa Tribe Reserve to move with the convoy guarded by the police. Official protection ensured security for both travellers and tribes. I was lucky to have spotted the Jarawas and experience the New Stone Age as it came to life and gave me the message of a satiated existence. With spears in their hands, almost bare bodies and a strange affiliation with nature, these tribes were a sight to behold.  Their mind was in harmony with the divine for they reflected its naturalness, might and graciousness.  They looked at us with indifferent eyes for our materialism did not lure them to leave their naturally blissful life.

    We crossed the Jarawa Reserve with natural ease and reached Nilamber Jetty that connected the caravan to two attractions; mud volcanoes and limestone caves. The mud volcanoes were close to Nilamber Jetty and could be approached by road. Made of natural gases emitted by decaying organic matter underground; the mud volcano held a significance of sorts for the individual in me. It appeared to me in a meditative state, as if cleansing itself of its karmic grime with ease and natural composure. The very thought of a release such as this- so natural and divine, literally left me awestruck and gaping at the beauty of nature. 

Next for the limestone caves, we boarded a vehicle ferry from Nilamber Jetty that sliced through the waters to move towards Baratang. The ferry accommodated buses, cars, bikes, etc. and on reaching Baratang, a dongi (boat) took us to the Baratang creek. The water was blue with the sunny stars that sparkled on its surface and made it look like the circle of bliss. We came across a string of islands covered with mangroves that to me represented a stupendously magnificent kingdom. We were told that the mangrove forests symbolised selfless living for they stood strong and rooted in their role to control flood, trap silt, and provide coastal protection barriers. On the marshes nearby a crocodile sprawled aware of the natural power of living in nature. I realised that the higher purpose of life was to serve like the mangroves and acknowledge the natural empowerment to live in surrender like the crocodile.  

 At last we reached the ‘Mangrove Canopy Walk’, which turned out to be path wondrously constructed without pruning even a single mangrove. It provided shade without a cut from a blade. Next we walked through a few paddy fields that signaled the presence of scarce population and ironically proved that just a few were enlightened to understand that nature was the only divine provider.

Once the limestone caves came into view, we were suddenly plunged into total darkness. It was time to follow the official guide who carried torches. Here massive limestone stalactites hung like huge chandeliers and stalagmites stood erect like stout pillars of strength. I was rendered speechless at the sight of these limestone caves that sparkled even in darkness and showed the way to be one with divine light. Once out of their dark embrace the sun welcomed us with its sparkling presence and confirmed that light always followed darkness in every nook and corner of life.

As evening set in we took a boat from the Baratang jetty and crossed through a creek to reach the Parrot Island. It showcased a lesson of discipline in progressive togetherness as nature’s inherent strength.  I noticed that all the trees had been pruned to perfection by the varied species of parrots. It was a mesmerizing experience as parakeets returned in flocks to disappear in the wilderness of the island they called home.  Baratang Island served as my spiritual retreat, decoding secret messages that helped me de-clutter and rejuvenate.

Where to stay? APWD guest House, Forest guest House, Panchayat Guest houses and Dew Dale Resorts are some of the places for the night halt at Baratang. How to plan? Visit the government website of Andaman and Nicobar Islands to plan a soulful vacation. What kind of clothes and footwear one must have? Loose clothes, comfortable and sturdy shoes. What do we need to carry at all times? Water, snacks, camera and a torch.